Gen Z TikTok-ers Find Empowerment with Coquette Femininity

Influencers Like to be Flirty, Femme, and Wear a Lot of Bows.

If the internet, especially TikTok, is to be taken seriously about fashion trends, we are in the middle of a Coquette Aesthetic revolution. The first clue is the presence of bows. In hair, on heads, on blouses, on skirts, on jackets, on top of each other; bows everywhere. With origins in the Japanese “Lolita” style, today’s “Coquette” look is flirty, whimsical, youthful, dramatic, romantic, and powerfully feminine. Thus, all the bows, both big and small.

A “coquette” is a shyly flirtatious female, and the fashion statement covers a lot of ground in expressing that look. According to Pinterest, it’s most popular with Millennials and Gen Z who enjoy things like “bow stacking” on their hair, jewelry, shoes, and garments. Although pearls, lace, ruffles, pastels with an emphasis on pink, puffy sleeves, soft corsets, babydoll dresses, tights, white knee socks, satin, and sensible ballet flats or Mary Janes are staples, the bow has become the ultimate statement of femininity.

TikTok microtrends being what they are, there’s plenty of room to mix and match styles, whether one prefers the kawaii-inspired Soft Girl, Balletcore, Fairycore, Cottagecore, Regencycore, or any of the various Japanese Lolita interpretations (sweet, punk, and gothic). Just, don’t forget the ribbons and bows.

@myashell_ What is the COQUETTE aesthetic and WHY IT’S TRENDING! I diving into thebyesr of the girl and why this trend connects to feminisim. What does the coquette aesthetic mean?? #coquetteaesthetic #coquettetrend #whatiscoquette #trendsexplained ♬ original sound - Mya

Los Angeles stylist Marisa Ledford told People Magazine that “Gen Z’s take on flirty, soft, hyper-feminine style” references the “Victorian Regency era.” That’s an odd take, given that the Regency and Victorian eras did not take place at the same time, but fashion doesn’t care about history. It just wants to look good and make a statement. According to Ledford, the previously alternative identity became popular in the early 2010s due to regular mentions on Tumblr.

The look has spread quickly during the past few years thanks to platforms including TikTok and Pinterest where influencers like Raimi Reyes and Isa Sung modeled their favorite coquette-inspired outfits. They are joined today by Latvian Mirumunes, Tania Sanchez of Austin, TX, Asian cuties Hina Tazzy and Coquette_Girl2024, Latina DC.Cindy, and lythe blonde XMyDollHouse.

According to TikTok, nearly five billion views have been wracked up using the search words or hashtag “Coquette Aesthetic.” A multitude of related search terms are recommended, all leading to interesting interpretations of the style both in the U.S. and abroad. Visitors can learn how to give pets and boyfriends a coquette makeover, properly create and wear a bow, choose the right nail polish and cosmetics, style their hair, update thrift store purchases, choose the perfect bedspread, admire accessories and footwear, and even eat a “coquette breakfast” featuring tiny pink and white bows. Pinterest reports a 190-percent surge in searches for “bow outfit” during January 2024.

Mainstream celebrities have noticed the romantic, sometimes Bridgerton-inspired trend, with singer Lana Del Rey long associated with the style although now leaning more toward a cottagecore vibe, The White Lotus star Sydney Sweeney, The Idol actress Lily-Rose Depp, socialite Paris Hilton, and even bisexual rapper Lil Nas X have stepped out in coquette gowns.

Some critics of the hyper-feminine aesthetic contend that it glorifies the infantilization of women and is dominated by white and thin models. Fortunately, even a casual look through TikTok reveals that many content creators either live outside of the U.S. or are of non-Caucasian heritage.

Dr. Victoria Cann, professor of gender politics and feminist theory at the University of East Anglia, points out that the word “girl” is commonly used within Black femme communities in a positive and loving way. Likewise, to dress femme in some queer circles is an “act of resistance against a heterosexual culture.” Internet culture specialist Deanna Middleton contends that the coquette aesthetic is a welcome extension of youth to women burdened with modern responsibilities. “Historically,” she says, “women had to take on masculine traits like lowering their voice or power dressing to be taken seriously. But now, women are embracing hyper-femininity as a form of empowerment.”

The previously mentioned Raimi Reyes told People that “it’s an ode to connecting with our younger selves. As a kid, I loved pink, ballerinas, princesses, and ‘coquette’ everything! Now that I’m in my 20s when I reflect on my childhood, I remember a time when I suddenly rejected all of that because I wanted to be more grown-up as I was becoming a teen.”

As for Isa Sung, her love of baby blue and pink appeals to her because, “The aesthetic brings out one’s most divine feminine energy, whether it’s through wearing a dainty barrette or romantic soft curls.”