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Down the Barrel we go

XCRITIC

It's a lazy Sunday and I was flipping through the channels on the television to see what was on worth watching. Usually I will watch a movie or a baseball game and just chill, get a snack and eventually take a nap. It's the perfect day, I live for lazy Sundays.

Today I stumbled upon a documentary and I am a sucker for a good documentary film. This was called Down the Barrel on ESPN2 and the title intrigued me, was it about hunting or perhaps about the 1970s sport of barrel jumping? Nope, not in the least, this documentary was a two hour film about surfing and the characters that make up this amazing sport. I have always had a love for surfing, probably because it is in the ocean and that is one of my obsessions. Anything to do with water, being pieces and all gets me excited.

The film followed the World Surfing Tour, something I didn't even know they had. I figured surfer's made their money from photo shoots, maybe some movie work and sponsors. But these guys (and girls) surf in something like five continents over a 10 month span of the tour. I think it is one event each month in a different country, but don't quote me on that. Could there be a better way to make a living? You get to travel the world and surf all the time. The pay isn't in the millions like stick and ball athletes but the benefits are priceless.

It was amazing seeing these guys battle the ocean on a board and ride these waves, including the "barrel" or "tube" by riding down the middle of a plummeting wave. They would ride the crest of the waves and snap their boards back in a quick turn, jump over a small wave and get major air. These guys would battle, seriously battle in the ocean trying to outdo each other but once they came out of the water some of them were the best of friends. They would hang out, tell stories and trade boards for fun. There was no trash talking, pushing or shoving or trying to embarrass their opponents.

Not to sound like a hippie, but the surfers are completely in touch with nature and know the risks of what the ocean can violently do. So they respect the waters and do ceremonies in Hawaii to pray to the ocean God's, as it should be.

So as I watch Andy Irons, Cory Lopez, Joel Parkinson and 8-time world champion Kelly Slater tear up the waves and get swallowed up the water only to get back up on their board to do it all over again in this aquatic ampatheatre, I wish I didn't live in land locked Illinois. But even if I did, I highly doubt I could surf because my balance and coordination is something to behold. But I would love to try it and practice if I didn't kill myself on the board.

I also think of my friends, porn performer, skater and surfer Keeani Lei and Casey Parker. I always knew they surfed and I was in awe of that. But after watching Down the Barrel I have a whole new respect for Keeani and Casey because it takes a lot of skill, athleticism and passion to be a surfer. I guess I knew that before but I didn't realize to what degree.

So i guess i will just sit back and nod off dreaming about surfer babes on this lazy Sunday.

KEEANI LEI

CASEY PARKER


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